MiSTer FPGA Forum

If, by "faithful" scanlines you mean scanlines that vary in thickness based on pixel brightness, then we can't do that with the current scaler. Otherwise we'd do that. Is it possible to do that with scandoubler? Instead of just darken the whole scanline there would be varying brightness on the doubled scanline. And for even more control ...

I found pretty much perfect custom resolution for ao486. This displays perfectly CGA/EGA and VGA graphics modes and with a little trick DOS text mode as well. This is not ideal for SVGA (800x600 and up) but i don't need those at all. Anyway, here is 1280x1440: video_mode=1280,50,142,240,1440,1,3,56,179983 320x200, 640x200, 640x350 and 640x400 resol...

There is an excellent description about custom aspect ratios on other thread . But it didn't help here. I tested SMW on SNES core a bit more. It looks like there is also vertical scaling as well (and i do have vscale_mode=1). It can be only seen with forced_scandoubler=0 and it is harder to see. I think the red S shows it the best, at least on my ...

I'm more convinced that the scaler applies some sort of horizontal filtering no matter what. I calculated custom resolutions for GBA core since the default just flickers few seconds and goes out of sync on my monitor. Here they are: video_mode=1440,90,140,250,1080,1,3,38,128208 ; 4:3 video_mode=960,22,148,150,720,3,5,28,57797 ; 4:3 video_mode=1440,...

No luck with custom aspect ratios on SNES core. It seems the 56:49 or 8:7 is the same as full screen and 64:49 is the same as original that are selectable from aspect ratio menu. I did test with many different custom aspect ratios on 1024x1024 and 1280x1024 graphics modes but never did the "shadows" go away. Eventually i did find somethin...

Its normal, that's interpolation between the black letter and blue sky because you aren't running an integer scale on the horizontal axis. But that also happens when i'm using custom 512 or 1024 pixel wide video modes (with vscale_mode=1). This is what confuses me. If that is still correct, then everything is ok and i just need to use the the no i...

I've been trying to figure out the scaling problem i have with the custom resolutions. I took some photos to show the problem . One of the photos is taken with scaler disabled and everything is correct. The rest are taken with video mode 4 (1280x1024@60Hz). Custom resolutions have exactly the same problem so i tried with one of the predefined modes...

Two new modes for NES and SNES. First one is 1024x960: video_mode=1024,30,100,190,960,1,3,30,80284 This mode has one problem. Is uses same settings as 1280x960 mode on my monitor. I'd rather save 1280x960 as an alternative to 320x240/640x480. So again 1024 scanline mode comes to rescure: video_mode=1024,32,78,210,1024,1,3,38,86100 This mode is a go...

I'm seeing the same issue using the vga_scaler. I disable it on my NES core. Is there a reason why you would use the vga_scaler? vga_scaler off with custom video_mode seems to give correct pixels (using 512x480) No, the scaler is required for custom resolutions. If i disable scaler the core outputs the default resolution instead of custom one. My ...

Is there a game I can easily detect this on It is very easy to test it with NES game Ducktales. Start Amazon stage and move so you see first two chests. Move to a position where the second chest is at the right side of the screen. The first one is then close to a screen center. On 512 modes i can easily see that the chest on the right edge is thin...

Just wanted to say that composite blend looks excellent on old Nec Multisync 2A. I thought the composite blend looked too blurry on 19" CRTs but for some reason it is just perfect on this old 14" VGA monitor. It seems that monitor does matter and newer is not necessarily better than old.

I've tested some games with Genesis and MegaCD cores and sometimes the screen just went blank without any indication of what might be wrong. I've used 19" Dell P992 VGA crt with forced_scandoubler set to 1 from mister ini file and vga_scaler set to 0. One of the games with the problem is Sonic 2 (2-player mode or just let the game intro play)....

I noticed something wrong with the 512x448 mode (video_mode=512,16,48,32,448,0,3,49,18240). Left and right edges are "compressed" meaning the pixel width is not the same across the picture. It can be noticed easily on some side scrolling games. I've used this mode on NES and SNES cores and the problem is the same. I've tested the graphics...

IMG_20201231_185743.jpg My case design is heavily influenced by this thread . I have very good DOS computers but there are lots of games that are better on Amiga. So instead of getting real Amiga, i got interested in mister since it can be connected to modern TVs and VGA monitors. Since it can also handle pretty much every 8- and 16-bit home compu...

These settings work for me:
forced_scandoubler=1
ypbpr=0
composite_sync=0
vscale_mode=1
vscale_border=0
vsync_adjust=0

[SNES]
vga_scaler=1
video_mode=512,16,48,32,448,0,3,49,18240

The translated video_mode settings are indeed wrong. It should be video_mode=512,16,48,32,448,0,3,49,18240
That gives nice 512x448 resolution @ 60 Hz.

That mode works also on Dell P992 (it has 19" Flat Trinitron tube). I tested with SNES core since the resolution is the same. However refresh rate was 67 Hz (both MiSTer and monitor OSD showed that). Is it because i tried it on SNES core or is that video_mode string not correct (i copy pasted it to the mister ini)?

I connected JP1 and JP3 and removed R14 and JP2. There was no change. I then tried to remove R12 and shorted R13. Again no change. Then i tried to make the bad side of the USB chip a little better. It now looks a little bit better but that didn't help either. Finally i properly cleaned the board and resoldered every remaining resistor and capacitor...

I tested and there was no short. It is hard to tell from the pictures but the leg is bend up and then soldered to the wire. I also tested all the USB ports and there was no shorts. I bought isopropyl alcohol today so i can clean the board. The L connector does not touch DE10 so there is no shorts there. It fits quite nicely. Power control chip is c...

Here are some pictures . I messed one side of the USB controller so i had to fix it with wire. I've tested with multimeter that there are no shorts between legs and all legs are connected where they should be. Edit: Retested the board again on a PC. It no longer works. It is just the same as with DE10. All I get is the dim red light. I measured 1....

And that trick stopped working. Maybe the DE10 is broken? I don't know if this is significant or not but i think the red led on the usb board is dimmer when it does not work.

Last desperate attempt to try something and success! Sort of. The USB board works every time (5 successful attempts without any failure) when i connect power to it after mister has booted up. After those five successful attempts the first attempt to power them at the same time and the USB did not work. Next attempt with delayed USB power up and suc...

Resoldering the L connector did not seem to help. I also tried to resolder the board pins for L connector. Everything checks ok with multimeter. The USB board still works on a PC but not on DE10, at least not usually. During the many powerups it actually worked maybe 4 times. Even when i got it to work, powering off and on again without touching an...

I removed the board from de10 and tried it on PC again. Seems to work fine. I'll need to try resoldering the L connector. It looks fine but maybe it has some cold joint.

I moved the resistor to R1a (and removed the jumper at P2) and it worked! The usb stick was detected as fast as it should but i had to change the cable again. Now the cable that came with de10 worked and the other cable did not. Since it now appeared to work i decided to test the hub board with de10. At first it worked. I used Mr Fusion Installatio...

USB hub v2.1. I haven't tried it in de-10 yet but I'm planning to first try it with L-connector. I'm eventually going to build a wooden case for mister and then i'll need to use cable to connect it to de-10. I'm currently powering the USB board with the power supply that came with de-10.

I can't believe it. The problem seems to be with the cable that came with DE10-nano. I tried with another cable and now Windows detects the USB stick from every port the USB hub board has. However, it takes about 35 seconds before the stick is detected. Every port is equally slow. Is this normal? What about the R1a/R1? Should I change the resistor ...

Did some more testing. I have resistor at R1 and not R1a. So i tried to place jumper on P2. Now my Windows 10 PC says it cannot detect the USB device or it has problems. I'm trying to connect it with cable placed in J2.

I have problems with USB hub board that i soldered. Red power led lits but nothing else does not work. I tried to connect it to old computer (I don't want to risk damaging the DE10-Nano) and tested the usb board with old 128 MB usb stick that is too old to be of any value today. So the red power led lights when I connect external power to the USB b...