Very nice built.
Just a question about the SD Breakout as I am thinking about to use such an adpater as well.
Is the SD working normal?
I read about reduced speed or general sd card detection problems if you use such an SD breakout adapter.
Cheers
Very nice built.
It's a micro sd to sd extender, so I haven't noticed any differences in its use/speed? You could use a micro sd to micros sd extender, but I like the full sd card size.
To expand on this, there could be a noticeable reduction in bandwidth as a result of there being lower capabilities of the cable AND a reduction in latency using such a cable, but it's highly unlikely that this impacts the performance of the MiSTer as the files you are loading and interacting with are much smaller than something like 8k resolution raw images.Derick2k wrote: ↑Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:17 pmIt's a micro sd to sd extender, so I haven't noticed any differences in its use/speed? You could use a micro sd to micros sd extender, but I like the full sd card size.
Two fans?mike4t5 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 09, 2020 11:31 pm Hi all, I recently got myself a 3d printer so I thought it would be a good opportunity to make my own case for the mister. I didn't want to go for the tried and tested 3d printed cases as I wanted a power button and for it to feel a bit more finished. I came up with this design. Hope you like it.
Yeah haha, I know its way over kill but I had one of the fans in another case I designed and I didn't have anything else to do with it. Plus more air flow never hurts.ARCADEAGES wrote: ↑Tue Nov 10, 2020 2:23 pmTwo fans?mike4t5 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 09, 2020 11:31 pm Hi all, I recently got myself a 3d printer so I thought it would be a good opportunity to make my own case for the mister. I didn't want to go for the tried and tested 3d printed cases as I wanted a power button and for it to feel a bit more finished. I came up with this design. Hope you like it.
Yeah that's right! In through the top and out the back.
I finalized my SNAC Board.venice wrote: ↑Sat Oct 17, 2020 5:05 pm At Amazon I found an 90° USB 3.0 Adapter and the needed breakout cable for an external SNAC Port but this function is still untested.
This is f'n awesome!!
Very cute! what kind of PSU are you using? It looks like that black box up top is a step up or step down converter? I have an iPad screen I'm building and a MiSTer I've finished, and I'm using a 12v 60w power supply to power the screen (12v x 2-3a = 24-36w), and it also goes to a 12v -> 5v 5a step down converter that powers the MiSTer and a little amp for speakers.
I'm using a 12V 3A power supply. Yes, the black box is a step down converter (12V to 5V)ellie wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:01 am Very cute! what kind of PSU are you using? It looks like that black box up top is a step up or step down converter? I have an iPad screen I'm building and a MiSTer I've finished, and I'm using a 12v 60w power supply to power the screen (12v x 2-3a = 24-36w), and it also goes to a 12v -> 5v 5a step down converter that powers the MiSTer and a little amp for speakers.
Yes, the speakers are connected directly to the 4pin JST connector of the screen controller board. The volume is great! The vol up/down is controlled through the OSD, it can always be refined in the MiSTer OSD (Core Volume). It would be great to find a way to have hardware buttons to control it, I've searched for it but I haven't found anything. If somebody comes up with something, i will be more than happy to include it.ellie wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:01 am A couple questions: are you using the "digital" speaker outs from the LCD driver board (the little four pin JST connector)? Is the volume just controlled through the OSD? I want to preserve my headphone out on the board, but I also want hardware volume control for the speaker, so I'm using a tiny amp with a volume control.
About the controller, i'm designing my own board (my first time designing a pcb!) to include the MiSTer on/off switch and the three MiSTer buttons. To learn about the pinout of the board you can check it with a multimeter in continuity mode. This is what I found. Pin8 would be the closest to the CN1 text on the board. I've switched pins 5 and 6 to maintain the same order of the buttons and the order of the icons in the screen's OSD. (For example if you check my first picture, you'll see the green and yellow cables are switched. With the board I'm designing this won't be necessary)ellie wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:01 am And you don't happen to have a pinout (or know how to work out a pinout) for the little remote control for the board, do you? It's a weird shape and tough for me to mount, so I thought I might make my own, but I don't know completely what I'm doing with that. I assume momentary switches going to ground or 5v would work?
I love your design what is the make and model of the case ?Derick2k wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 2:54 am After seeing so many great cases I decided to jump in and put one together. All off the shelf parts with some acrylic mounting plates I cut. I didn't want to solder much/remove headers, etc..just wanted to do it quickly, if I would have gone with a custom wire job I could have put it in a much smaller case, a bit more neatly. Went a large 120mm fan, very quiet while moving massive air, didn't make sense to pay almost the same price for the smaller 40mm fan from Noctua. Now to actually turn it on, hopefully, it doesn't go up in smoke
It's the new aluminium case Porkchop Express (misteraddons.com) has just started selling, I just finished putting mine together.