MiSTer FPGA Forum

Chosen_S wrote: ↑Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:19 pm I used a 1980s alarm clock by GE. I’ve been holding onto this clock shell for over 20 years waiting for a project worthy to install into it,

...that's the right way

Hi Antonio,

antoniovillena wrote: ↑Sun Jan 10, 2021 2:03 pm Are you interested to support them? The are available trough i2c (same pins than RTC) and detected by Linux.

I send you an PM.

Stuck my Mister into a broken Xbox360, nothing fancy but does the job.


im not the best at soldering so didn't try, reuse the existing ports on the case at the rear,
so there is Hdmi, the 3.5mm audio jack, RJ45 and 3 usbs, and a further 2 usbs behind the small flap at the front.


some hot glue to keep the cables in place.


using the hd bay to access the memory card if needed.

Wow I am absolutely blown away by the builds you guys have made. They are not the most practical space-wise, but they are a joy to look at. The digital GE clock in particular caught my eye

Here's my simple 3D printed case. I chose red, in honor of the SNK red cabs! I'm eyeing the aluminium case from MisterAddons, but I'll wait until my case doesn't suit my needs anymore... (plus, I don't want to have bought a Noctua fan for nothing )

Chosen_S wrote: ↑Sun Jan 10, 2021 4:19 pm I used a 1980s alarm clock by GE. I’ve been holding onto this clock shell for over 20 years waiting for a project worthy to install into it

incredible.. mind blown.. many congrats.

First live OLED Test using an SSD1322 Display with 256x64 Pixel connected via SPI to an ESP32 which is connected via USB Serial to the MiSTer. Moved to Topic viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1887

This is getting out of hand! Now there are two of them!

Dark Chili wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 10:23 pm This is getting out of hand! Now there are two of them!

Time to go to the vet and snip/snip before you have a whole litter of them

Live OLED Test using an SSD1322 Display with 256x64 Pixel connected via SPI to an ESP32 which is connected via USB Serial to the MiSTer.

Update for more stabilty and faster response.
Is it worth to open an separate Topic?

Moved to: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1887

venice wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 10:20 am ..
Is it worth to open an separate Topic?
..

yes

venice wrote: ↑Wed Jan 20, 2021 10:20 am Is it worth to open an separate Topic?

Definitely

I want to include this in my custom MiSTer case. I have converted an old cable box that have a transparent plastic front and this would be perfect for this one shining trough.

SwedishGojira wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 8:32 am Definitely

Done

Hi,

I'll share my MiSTer case too! I used a black aluminum mini ITX computer case. It's about the size of a Mac mini, but a little taller. It looks quite sleek in person.

Front:


Inside:


Rear:

• I only used the DE10-Nano & SDRAM board, no IO board.
• I mounted the DE10-Nano to the case via the bottom air vent slots, 2 screws with the board diagonal.
• To mount a fan on the DE10-Nano, I made my own top mount.
• To use the case side USB ports, I made a dual USB Header to dual male USB A adapter, out of two broken USB cables and a port off of something I found in my junk electronics box.
• I made my own inline power switch, mounted to the rear using existing holes.
• I made a DIY rear panel, it's not pretty, but unseen and functional. I'll 3D print this when I eventually get a 3D printer.
• The fan, case LED, and case reset button, are all connected to the GPIO.
• I used a cheap non-powered USB hub, it does the job. Mounted with zip ties.

I bought a Raphnet NES to USB dual input board. I planned to mount it to the front of the case in a similar manner to the NES. After seeing how terrible a job I did cutting out holes in the rear panel, which is only plastic, I know that I'd butcher the aluminum case. So I'm giving up on that idea for now.

Mort Handsome wrote: ↑Thu Jan 21, 2021 5:37 pm Hi,

I'll share my MiSTer case too! I used a black aluminum mini ITX computer case. It's about the size of a Mac mini, but a little taller. It looks quite sleek in person.

Good job, very similar to what I've done, including drilling holes in to a piece of plastic for the rear ports until I get a 3D printer.

I've been struggling getting the front momentary power button to work properly for weeks (waiting ages on parts to arrive only for them not to work, then ordering something else... repeat).

I gave up on it and ordered a latching switch which should fit the case, arrived 10 mins ago so should get it finished today.

Finally finished up my MiSTer stick and case.


The case is nothing special, just a metal project box. Right now it's a pretty minimal setup, but it is what works best in my setup. I use my monitor's built in USB hub and selector switch to share my keyboard, mouse, and joystick between devices. It has plenty of room for expansion, so maybe an MT32Pi in the future?


The joystick itself is an old Hori stick that I gutted and put in a Daemonbite Arcade adapter and some extra buttons for Menu and Pause. The stick itself is a Seimitsu LS-56 and the buttons are Seimitsu as well.

I finally got this case finished off after waiting for various bits to arrive.
It's a SilverStone SST-PT13B Thin Mini-ITX case - about 4.3cm in height, a snug fit but I wanted something thin to fit under my TV.
I went for a mini ITX case as they already have hard drive mounts and front USB ports etc.
The back plate is a piece of plastic I cut from the bottom of an old keyboard that I drilled holes in for the ports.
I was planning to use a 3D printed part when I bought a printer, but it turned out better than I thought it would so I may leave it.

To help with space, I soldered the power, front USB ports & DE10 data cables directly to the USB Hub.
I also trimmed some strain relief from the cables and replaced the plastic Sata plug with tape so it would fit.
I replaced the front momentary power button with a latching SPDT switch, I'd originally tried to use the stock button using a few different devices with varying levels of success but ended up just replacing the button.
I prefer the look of this new one anyway, I wish I'd done that in the first place and saved some money.
Also, the hole is 16mm which is fairly standard and easy to find a drop in replacement without cutting.

The front power switch has a 12v LED which I'm running from the 5v/GND pins on the IO board, and the small red LED on the front is connected to the 3.3v/Disk pins with a resistor so it's not too bright.
It's held in place with gorilla/electrical tape as I had to remove the mounting when I replaced the power button.

There's probably enough space to add a VGA port/audio jack/SNAC/SD extension etc, but will think about that if I ever need them.
Same goes for the 3 buttons, I was going to add 3 tiny buttons to the side poking through the vents, but not really needed.

Veln wrote: ↑Sat Jan 23, 2021 4:43 pm Good job, very similar to what I've done, including drilling holes in to a piece of plastic for the rear ports until I get a 3D printer.

Your rear panel looks better than a 3D print would anyway! That's a sleek looking case, kudos.

p60091 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 17, 2020 8:13 pm Here's my stealthish MiSTer Famicom. Bought a broken Famicom a few years ago from Japan and originally wanted to throw a pi in there, but this is much better imho. I love the fact that the 8bitdo fc30 controllers fit directly in the side slots. It integrates a 4A psu, a 3 port usb hub and 2 controller dongles.

The one thing I wanted though was add a hardware reset switch without the IO board, but I don't understand electronics well enough to read the schematics. If anybody here knows of a way, please let me know.

Such a clean install! I'm working on an install inside an old Famicom as well. Planning on using the 8bitdo N30 mod boards in the original controllers so they can still slot in the sides. Can you share the parts list for what you used for this? Especially the rear panel, cartridge slot cover, and front expansion port USB bracket. Are these 3D printed parts? If so, can you share the STL files?

Sorry, no clever build for the MiSTer itself, just a 3d printed case. But a different setup. The Dell CRT is connected to a VGA/USB/audio switch that allows for both the MiSTer and a mini pc to be connected to it. This way I can enjoy ExoDOS, ExoWin, and other emulators on the CRT as well and can share the speakers, mouse and keyboard.

The TFT is connected via HDMI with a DVI adapter to the MiSTer only and used mainly for vertical orientation games that would be rather small on the CRT.

mapf wrote: ↑Thu Feb 04, 2021 12:21 pmThe TFT is connected via HDMI with a DVI adapter to the MiSTer only and used mainly for vertical orientation games that would be rather small on the CRT.

This is a GREAT idea!

I find myself having “vertical weeks” and “horizontal weeks”, moving the monitor in between. But this is cool. You’re ready for anything!

Here is mine, Mostly used for Arcade Games but I have recently made it easier to plug in usb gamepads for some good console gaming using the latest Xbox Controllers. I interface everything with an Ipac-2 and I am able to rotate the monitor either Vertically or Horizontally as needed. Got a little lazy with the labeled picture for the buttons, as you can see that "future button" did in fact get installed. That button provides player 2 with controls when playing Tetris, Joust, Wizard of Wor and Mario Brothers. Keeping an eye on the Mistercade project, once that comes out I plan on getting my mister setup using a CRT that can rotate and playing the arcade games on the screens they were designed for!!

First attempt at a custom case: I used an arduino nano mounted inside to display ambient temp:
Eventually because of shortcomings (like port access) I ditched it for a more basic setup: I'd like to do another custom case some day, just waiting for motivation

Because essential parts of MiSTer devoured all my spare money, I have decided to try to make a case from junk found around my basement. It should not be that hard, right? Wrong! I will never be a carpenter At least it keeps my cats from chewing cables and munching on unprotected PCBs.

It do look quite good in the last pic, even better if you take 1-2 steps back and take a slightly blurry picture

Enthropy wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 7:54 pm Because essential parts of MiSTer devoured all my spare money, I have decided to try to make a case from junk found around my basement. It should not be that hard, right? Wrong! I will never be a carpenter At least it keeps my cats from chewing cables and munching on unprotected PCBs.

Baby steps. Remember, everyone starts somewhere. People that have worked with wood only make beautiful finished creative stuff after probably a decade of practice and 10,000 hours. Most carpenters are just following a design and doing the same thing over and over (a couple friends do carpentry professionally) or doing things that are just functional and not aesthetic.

Got a new case with a custom ioboard/usb combo from taobao (saw it on the Mister Facebook group). They have various colour variants and even an aluminum design.
Very nice and slim design. They replaced the vga port with a sega Saturn one. Which is okay. But I think I would prefer the vga one. I added/fiddled a usbc port for power which cracked a bit of the plastic. Nothing superglue can't fix.

New setup! So beautiful.

Here is my temporary setup, until I get some proper mounts for the Dell.
The Mister is in a plastic case under the Philips Monitor. The CRT is a Philips CM8833 Mk2, the menu-only resolution is slightly too high for the Philips, but any lower and the Dell LCD goes mad. The Dell is a 20" 2001FP LCD, and is only for cores that won't output a 15hz signal such as the PC ao86 core. Arcade stick is a Hori Rap V4, and the keyboard is a nice Razor Blackwidow. Speakers are M-Audio monitor speakers.
This is my favourite gaming corner of my spare room. I love using the Mister late at night, especially on computer cores where the backlit keyboard is perfect for night use.

allyourbasekris wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:44 pm New setup! So beautiful.

I recently got the same case in the clear color, it is exactly what I had been looking for!

However the buttons didn't fit, because the buttons of my analog board are too high for some reason. So I found a clear acrylic rod online with a diameter of 8 mm. They did have clear colored rods as well, but they were only 6 mm. I had to sand it down slightly and still need to polish and then cut it to button rods.

To keep those rods from falling out, I found clear 8 mm silicone rings (at an online piercing shop, lol). I think the end result will look great.

Since I started using MiSTer last December, my MiSTer has been a bare DE10-Nano with just heatsink and SDRAM board.
Now I got beautiful clear acrylic case, IO board v6.1 with Noctua fan and USB Hub v2.1 from misterfpga.co.uk